The first thing one experiences in Arusha—and Tanzania in general—is organized chaos. Things simply work, though the mechanics remain mysterious. It's prudent to just sit back and enjoy the flow of life, traffic, people walking, animals being herded, and the seemingly random shops, shacks, street vendors, and brick and hand-poured concrete skeletons of unfinished houses. The traffic will likely capture your attention first. Sure, there are rules of the road that are mostly followed, but there are also unwritten rules that will amaze. Safari trucks, tuk-tuks, boda-bodas, cars, lorries, people on bicycle or foot, and animals of diverse ilk will cut you off, go around you, nearly hit you, and generally appear as a menace to orderly organization. And yet it makes sense. It's how things work and no one gets mad or suffers from violent road rage. Life flows just as efficiently in this chaotic stream of metal and flesh. It is, oddly enough, relaxing and fun to witness.


The second revelation is the constant change in landscape. One minute you're in a flat plain with crops or grasses, and seconds later you're in rolling hills with vegetation resembling the Yucatan. This is Tanzania—a land of countless climates and ecosystems.


The third discovery is the warmth and friendliness of Tanzanians. As a traveler in this magical country, it is easy to smile ear-to-ear all day long. Not only do you see wonderful sights, but the people eagerly engage you with their brilliant, lively eyes and their vibrant, beaming smiles. You can't help but return their bonhomie with equal warmth and joy.


These were the students' first impressions upon arriving in Tanzania. Sure, some of the bureaucratic proceedings of customs and passport control don't make much sense, but once out in the "real world," you breathe easy in the refreshing air of this spectacular land. You are simply at home, and Tanzanians will ensure you feel every bit the welcomed family member who they haven't seen in ages. Such was our experience at our lodging, the Tumaini Homestay in Arusha. The proprietor, Andy, rolled out the red carpet of hospitality. His mantra is that you are family and he means it.


With our every need met and our travel-weary bones settled, we eagerly awaited our safari guides, Douglas Duncan Simbeye and Prisca Sumari, who joined us for dinner to brief us on the coming adventure. Pascal and Jesse, veterans of numerous CARTA field courses, have become close friends with Douglas, as does everyone who meets him. Douglas loves his country—the land, the animals, the rhythm of nature, the mundane, the extraordinary—and he especially loves teaching visitors about the place he calls home. The students had heard stories of Douglas and quickly found that they were true to the last word, though he proved even more wonderful in person.


Douglas walked us through the particulars of the safari and Hadza-visit portions of the Field Course. With the schedule and rules of conduct in place, Douglas made sure to remind us of the most important lesson: expectation is the bane of satisfaction. Yes, he and Prisca would do their utmost to find the most amazing sites and animals, working tirelessly to maximize our experience. But we must travel without our hearts set on specifics. A desperate desire to see a leopard will diminish countless other delights if the cautious cat decides not to appear. With this, we were released for bed—and for some, very late-night packing. Douglas and Prisca would return at 5:30 AM to shuttle us into the waning night for our first day of safari.